India's Golden Trio: Jaipur, Agra, and Delhi

 

A famous sight before my eyes:
white marble mausoleum, relishing in the morning glow,
adorned with two fierce crimson buildings, watching solemnly,
absorbing the sun's ascent.

Where did we visit? You likely already know. Of course, the answer is Taj Mahal, essentially "Crown Palace" in English, which was built by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan as a memorial for his favorite wife. Taj was made even more spectacular as a part of our golden triangle trek to Jaipur, Agra, and Delhi.

Weeks of planning preceded this moment. First part was clearly seeing the excellent Mughal-e-Azam musical, detailing Akbar -- the most famous Mughal emperor -- attempting the knife's edge balance of ruler and father. My older sister, wielding her knowledge of the area, arranged a tour company and an itinerary for the trip. I elected to let the others -- especially my parents -- dictate our plans and to more help with planning. My role was more as checker and occasional document uploader. Some experimentation happened here as well where we got a wheelchair porter for me. Benefits seemed there but I was also wondering how that might work out logistically. Another piece of the puzzle to slot in.

On top of that, we all kept going to the drawing board for our outfits for the Taj Mahal itself. Eventually, I decided to introduce my dark blue kurta bought in Udaipur as a fit for white marble. This planning buzzed and lingered in the background until we finally journeyed to this swath of Northern India. The trip was a little unusual in that we flew to Jaipur, hit the roads for Agra and Delhi, and then returned to Mumbai by plane.

Finally, our leave date arrived, with an unusual evening flight. Flight 1 landed in Jaipur around around 11:10 PM. Not terribly eventful because I just slept!  

Let me back up a little bit though. Earlier in the day, I felt quite unwell. Took some imodium to manage whatever bug I had. My dinner had been pointless at a very inconvenient time... one might say. The kind security guard gave me a big water bottle just as we headed off to the airport.

As one can imagine, I was excited to get more sleep. Took some melatonin and dozed off in the hotel room around 1 AM. Jaipur was destined to be a one day affair not. Amusingly, Jaipur, as a city of 2 million, is my first time seeing true urban Rajasthan. Soon we would complete the TRIANGLE of Rajasthan (if you squint and are very generous with geometry).

 

Jaipur: The Pink City
Our day in this city was bookended between epic exploration during the day and elegant eating at the Leela Palace hotel. Both had been arranged for in advance of our golden triangle trip. In fact, I packed warm clothes attire and dress clothes attire, as Leela Palace apparently demands an excellent appearance. 

Before the time of Jaipur, there was a 12th century village, complete with a stunning fort. It is, as you can view there, another vantage point for the eyes. Unfortunately, the 12th century roads meant that our van would not be sufficient. If up to me, we would have gone on the buggy up, but that was just my wishes. We did avail ourselves of a this viewpoint where off in the distance elephants clad in red carried people up.  

Seeing Mehrangarh Fort helped me absorb this blow a little bit, but Amber Fort seems remarkable. For example, Jodhaa Akbar -- the 2008 historical epic Bollywood film about Mughal Emperor Akbar -- was partially filmed right here. (If there is one theme of our Golden Triangle trek, it is Mughal Emperor Akbar.)  There was a wrinkle, though, as the wheelchair porter we paid for was supposed to take me through the Amber fort.

 

 

A 16 kilometer wall atop a hill greeted us as we looped around to leave the fort area. 

 

  

Currently, we were outside of the true city of Jaipur, which was populated eons later. We were presented with a beautiful place, reminding me of the Udaipur palaces with a more distinctive flair. Like in that city, centuries old dam were used to create unnatural bodies of water to collect the rain that only falls during monsoons. (Rajasthan, it must be noted, is not known for a humid climate.0

Notice the duck treading water as a little dot. Many of those wonderful white-billed dark birds were present here too. Here, against tranquil waters, we resolved some confusion over the plans. Items like the tour guide, the wheelchair porter, and not knowing about the "jeep" requirement for the fort. My little sister, with wise words, was able to steer us forward.

Our tour guide, on my request, explained the birds present.  Asides from ducks, there were herons, pelicans, and cormorants. The last group specifically, the gracefully awkward and lanky cormorants perched on their dedicated platform above the lake.

 

Inner city Jaipur, towards the traditional area, fast fills with pinks bordering on red and orange, taken from indigenous red sandstone pigments and repainted by the government. Such a look truly creates the "Pink City", best described by a remarkable windowed gate. My mother especially took to this gate, insisting we stop for many pictures. She called it the "pink gate!" but fortunately held a clear vision in mind. 

 

   

Moving past windows galore, we ended up in the midst of numerous bazaar (market) stalls selling wares ranging from clothes to jewelry. (Each featuring a Rajasthani local style.) Though nice, I admittedly was still feeling focused on the historical events.

Jaipur City Palace, where the Maharaja lives to this day, injected tremendous mystique from the start. Strictly speaking, the Udaipur City Palace held fast as a more complete museum. Jaipuri architecture is related to the Marwar and Mewar styles of Jodhpur and Udaipur with its own distinct charm. My appreciation deepened. Oh, and, this is where I used my wheelchair assistance! Which is an improvement over straining my legs back in Jodhpur and Udaipur.

 

 

A beautiful Jaipuri pink gate set the stage. 

  

 

Any piece of this place is an architectural monument. I can get away with weird angles like these trying to avoid people and still capture its beauty.  For the record, not our only time at this site during the visit. This particular structure? The hall of private audiences for people to plead their concerns before the royalty.

 

 

Chandra Mahal (the golden palace below) still serves as a royal residence. Barely visible in that photo is a flag being flown, showing that the maharaja is currently in town. We did not pay the extra money to go inside; a missed opportunity, but maybe a little weirder if I had entered. 

 

More splendor found across the city palace, complete with another series of gates designed to catch the eye. 

 

While my family took a rest, I explored the Jantar Mantar with the tour guide and wheelchair porter. Jantar Mantar -- "Abra Cadabra" -- mixes shockingly precise scientific instruments with less scientific astrological practices. Guide explained that this observatory hosts the largest sundial in the world featuring a precision of 2 seconds. Also was given the chance to see seeing the rotation of planetary bodies and even the Taurus (my astrological sign) tool.

 

Coordination was a little challenging as I came out. Tour guide bought us puppets (a gift seemingly mandated by the tour company) and took a picture of me with them. On one hand, I understand. On the other, reuniting with my family was a top priority for me. Funnily enough, just after, mom and I split up with dad and sisters going to market and my mom and I going elsewhere. We passed by a colonial era British building that looks nice and stayed outside. Sometimes one just appreciates a building's exterior.

 

Breaching mid-afternoon made me famished. My mom and I ate at Masala Chowk ("Spice Intersection"), after paying a few rupees. Fresh orange juice and pani puri (stuffed with potatoes) were both quite good. I ate enough pani puri that mom got seconds. Surgical, unreal levels of tasty. Stopped myself though. Part of me wondered if I would get sick, but it never happened.

 

Birla Temple, dedicated to the Hindu Lord Vishnu, is a fascinating blend of North and South Indian Hindu styles. Though photography was not allowed, one can appreciate a striking French influence inside. Built in 1987, this temple is scarcely historical, yet with a poignant fusion style.

 

Mom tipped the tour guide and we headed back to the hotel. A strange craving lingered inside me: ordering some Pizza Hut for a snack and a chance to try out Swiggy (the Indian delivery app). However, I cannot pay with cash, my only payment method on hand. In the end, dad came back and helped me order. By this point, our 9 pm reservation was getting close. So only one pizza could be ordered.

To keep myself busy, I went to the gym for a 10 minute workout, and returned to DEVOUR my pizza. (Had to come down to the room, head to the front desk, and return to the room with the pizza.) My sisters were shocked by my speedy actions. Now, as we were leaving soon, I dressed up in my slacks, dress shirt, and cleaned up (shaving, skincare, etc -- the whole nine meters).

Heavy traffic raised our drive time to past 70 minutes. Somehow my stomach continued to cooperate, despite my ongoing predicament. On arrival, my worries were washed away by impeccable beauty with delicate lighting. A curveball was thrown when we were asked to wait for our table, despite the reservation. Perhaps places this pretty justify that extra wait.

 

Some fretting later, we were led into the grand candlelit room for our dining experience. Lit candles were arranged serenely (yet dangerously) on the floor and elsewhere, demanding careful movement in this area. Immediately, I made a joke about Sheesh Mahal ("Mirror Palace") because of this room's reflective state. In the background, a beautiful folk instrument was being played carefully, filling the space with music. Maybe it's now clear why I dressed up!

    

 

Six courses of food came out to us one by one -- selected from the non-vegetarian menu -- that left me feeling supremely stuffed. Around maybe dish 3, my dad finally asked the staff what instrument was being played. Apparently, a Kashmiri instrument called Santoor; the musician was asking for recommendations. Of course, I insisted on "Afreen Afreen" by Rahat Fateh Ali Khan and he offered to try. His "try" was instantly recognizable for the original tune, which is impressive. My older sister actually requested a separate Rahat song, amusingly enough. Such warm, gentle music made it so easy to start feeling sleepy.

Dishes ranged from gentle tomato lentil soup to kulfi (Indian ice cream) to a thali (round platter for food) containing many items. Our final dish, the thali, featured Chicken, lamb, rice, daal (lentils), and more. This required multiple breaks and still I only managed to eat most of it. Course style meals are always so challenging for this reason, no matter how delicious it is.

Gentle santoor tunes still enchanted my mind seeking rest and reprieve. Outside the Leela Palace, we took one more photo, and adjusted our plans in favor of sleep. Once more, I am struck with a 1 AM bedtime, as we move onwards.

On the Up and UP from Rajasthan Onwards

Fans of Indian geography -- all of the ones reading this blog -- will groan at this stilted pun. Uttar Pradesh, shortened to UP, hosts many famous cities, especially Agra, Lucknow, and more. Heading in that direction allowed me to appreciate more of that stubborn Rajasthan greenery, hinting at both desert conditions and deep groundwater reserves. Crows up and vanished as we left the Jaipur area....which felt a little lonely. Still, not much of a place for farming.

 

Next stop was a little uncertain. My father had requested Fatehpur Sikri, the most obscure Mughal Empire capital, for our stop before Agra. To this day, it is still a working, breathing town -- just not right where the historic monuments are. And, just for reference, Fatehpur Sikri is in Uttar Pradesh just past the border with Rajasthan. A cool few hours from Jaipur by road.

 

However, the family wondered if that would impact our sunset visit to Agra. For those unfamiliar, the Taj Mahal is there! With a quick call, dad received assurances that we had enough time.

Fatehpur Sikri: The Abandoned City
Fatehpur Sikri, actually, was where we picked up our second tour guide. Guide 1 was pleasant and knowledgeable but Guide 2 was somehow even moreso. Guide 2 shows a real penchant for describing Mughal history, including their own experiences growing up in Fatehpur Sikri. Instead of 5 minutes in Fatehpur, we spent an hour in the sun.

As our guide explained, the capital was built by Mughal emperor Akbar -- considered the greatest of the empire -- and then abandoned over water supply issues. This place provided an amazing primer on the Taj Mahal because of the many impressive Mughal structures. Lovely, large layouts filled with red sandstone.

Another impressive part? I was pushed around the site in a wheelchair. Some parts had steps, but there were a few ramps added in after the fact. Unfortunately, there were some uh "negative additions." That's right! The British took gold and other items from Fatehpur Sikri!

Without further ado, please enjoy these historical sights:

There was about 45 minutes more to go for Agra by car. Many words were spoken. Most fascinating of all was the Mughal equivalent of the "aliens guy on the History channel." As the guide explained, supposedly the Taj Mahal had a second iteration meant to be built in the Mehtab Bagh (more on this later) made of black marble. This Black Taj conspiracy relies on black marble -- which was sourced from South India, outside the Mughal Empire. Another reason to not believe this theory: black marble is harder to work with, which would surely take more than the Taj Mahal's 22 years.

Truly, we were blessed with a great primer for our sunset viewing. Mehtab Bagh, roughly translated to Moonlight Garden, is considered a great place for this. The state of Uttar Pradesh had built their own Taj viewing point -- but it was not as well regarded.

Agra: The Mughal City
Incredibly, we saw for ourselves the Moonlight Garden, the alleged site of the Black Taj. The shallowness of foundation surely must be entirely apparent. Less apparent from the photo is the number of black birds that sat inside the moon shaped perimeter.

 

Ahead of sunset, we got into position around maybe 6:30. To our back, the Mehtab Bagh. Goats, cows, and farmers wandered between us and the Taj, creating a pastoral feel. Waiting for the sun to dip, I took a bench next to two people playing a dice game. When the time came, my family and I took our sunset photos with similar glows like the one below. It seems that the best photos were in fact ahead of sunset!

 

 

Back at the hotel, we strategized our Taj trip. For a sunrise at 7, we had to wake up at 4 and leave by 5.  I also verified my choice of blue kurta, balancing out the family's outfits. (Or so I was told.)

Seeing the most lauded site in India is naturally a tall order. Even more the most famous instance of Mughal empire. How can one not be nervous? We arrived around 5:30 to the entry queue and left the Taj area around 9:30 -- what an endeavor! Maybe like a single hour if there were no people.

It took over an hour to reach the Taj complex. We took a buggy just to the entrance as cars were restricted. These anti-pollution efforts seek to keep the Taj in pristine condition. Big sis and guide went to get us tickets while we waited in line and for the gate to open up. A stray dog tried to befriend me while I had fresh clothes on and sitting in a wheelchair. Used my foot to keep the dog at bay and eventually they walked away. Our ticket team returned and we passed through the gate entering the complex, followed by security checking us by hand and with metal detectors.

Awe is an apt description of my feeling going in. My entire time in India built up to this moment. While the pressure was a bit much, I could not help but be astounded. How do you put into words such an impressive sight? Very carefully. An incredible build up faced us before we even got close to the Taj.

 

 

 

If the Taj was beautiful at sundown, it was especially wonderful now. We moved closer in, feeling a crisp breeze, and scouted for prime picture locations. Our tour guide, a photography enthusiast, assisted us in taking wonderful family photos against the Taj a notch after sunrise as the sun peeked out.

 

Taj now appeared close to our eyes, beckoning us. There are certain characteristic photos of the main building overlooking a long, rectangular pool of water. Certainly, I took snapshots like those as well. That said, it's simply more fun to show Taj from the lesser-seen angles -- to understand that this building is even more impressive up close. Before moving up to the red-rimmed platform below Taj, the wheelchair had to be left with the porter.

A pillar greeting the rising sun.

 

Adjoining companion to the Taj, soaking in the sun's glow with this high-exposure shot.

 Shoe covers were mandated for feet. Getting really close to the Taj proper. I walked carefully, trying to keep my energy levels up. Because of my condition, a staff member opened the chain for me to walk a shorter distance.  Reunited with my family soon after. 22 steps, one for each year to build the Taj, greeted us with demanding spaces. I wasted no time and joked that, after 22 steps, I had 9 years remaining.

 

With a little bated breath, we entered the people jetstream inside the Taj, a circular current pushing us past the grave proper. No photographs allowed was marked clearly -- that was honestly a relief for me. Two exceptionally rude tourists told me to go back if I wanted to join my dad (separated from us). The human river had a mind of its own, and we all ended up ahead of the two rude folks. (Surprisingly, the only rude tourists I had noticed in my vicinity.) 

 

Of course, we were not allowed into the graves, but there were two chances to peer in, one fragmented and one full. Latter view showed pigeons making themselves comfy in the closed off area. Our guide had us duck into corners momentarily for us to hear the stories.

 

The other side revealed beautiful sights across the river, a chance to walk around the Taj more. To see it from every side. Admittedly, not much remained to see, but I certainly took up the atmosphere until the end.

  

Truly each corner of the Taj Mahal is beautiful and pristine. It has held up incredibly well in the face of time, which cannot be taken for granted.

 

Taj is famously white, but one must admire the sheer might of the red in surrounding structures like this picture of the Mehman Khana (a building gazing at the Taj).

 

One minor takeaway for me is how many birds love to hang out near the Taj Mahal, filling the area with their calls. A few parrots dropped to the ground, offering me a rare good photograph. (Back in Jodhpur, I could only muster a very zoomed in, low resolution shot.)

  

Having viewed the Taj, we made our way back through the garden, this time along the pool. Because of how popular this area is, we had to be quick with photographs of ourselves. A narrow platform could be stepped onto quickly for an excellent reflection shot with the Taj. (This spot vied for much attention.) For me, this footwork was challenging, but somehow nothing bad happened! 

Given 4 hours had elapsed, one can guess that we had a little trouble saying goodbye. Having taken possibly hundreds of photos collectively, it was about time to go. With these sights in my brain, I felt content to call this place great and head out. Admittedly, this experience was not as life-changing as the expectations in my mind. Still an absolutely fantastic time, though!

Now back to the hotel to change into non-Taj clothes, goof off, relax, and eat some tasty breakfast like vadas (essentially savoury Indian donuts). For some reason, I had really taken to vadas on this trip. (Strategic do-nothing periods like these are what got us through this entire trip.) Once preparations were completed, we met the guide downstairs. Like the previous one, he had us pose with gifts for photos, Little Taj models for us to take on our way. Next up was the Agra Fort, and then the drive to Delhi.

Agra Fort was a fantastic complement to the Taj Mahal. There's a sad connection too. Aurangzeb imprisoned his father Shah Jahan here for 7 years so that he could at least see the Taj in captivity. Not to mention Aurangzeb killed his brothers to ascend to the throne, reflecting how brutal Mughal history can be.

What else can you ask for other than the mighty red Mughal forts? These sights resonated well with me. An awe-inspiring entrance, magnificent doorways, and more awaited us.

Shah Jahan could see the Taj from here and so too could we. Even from afar, one can appreciate an enduring symbol.

 

We reached the Noor Mahal, the part of the fort where Shah Jahan lived. Seems like a pleasant place for captivity at least!

The Indian army occupies 75% of the fort, leaving many sites closed off. Rationale is that the fort is important for national security, maybe. Even including a remarkable mosque that would have been lovely to visit. I'm not annoyed at all! Our last major stop was the hall of private hearing, where the emperor would hear concerns of subjects. (Just like in Jaipur, huh?) Stunning arches lined beautifully that begged for special attention.

 

 

Agra Fort is quite remarkable, which frustrated me. This beauty is just a fraction of what is actually present at the site. I realized that there is simply no way to absorb every facet of these monuments. Then, these stopovers should be hallmarks of India's historical cultural diversity. Even when their memory might be subdued by recent political shifts in the country. 

Before leaving Agra, I had to examine the local treat of petha, a soft candy made from white pumpkin (also known as ash gourd). Our guide, right before we dropped him off, gave us a recommendation to follow. Simple stopover by the highway and I asked for the basic coconut-flavored petha. With car ride once more in motion, I ate one. Though not immediately my preference, I was drawn in by the mixture of a little liquidy balanced by a crunchier interior. A nice memento for another several hours by road. 

 

My Way, or the Delhi-Agra Highway 

No map knowledge need for this even more silly pun. Now well past hardier Rajasthan, the landscape changed into grassy plains and little farms. Surprisingly spread out space, easing into the drive. Leagues apart from certain bumpy roads.

This route, stable and calm, chanced upon the right conditions for a short poem about the drive. Passing across this highway gave me the chance to ponder about the towns and cities in-between (such as Mathura). I never saw the city on the road but it was so perfectly placed on the map.

Agra and Delhi,
residing in the shadows of the Mughal Empire,
join by a smooth road, barely marked by time’s passing.

As rows of quiet farmlands dotted with trees,
mysterious villages of town around,
travel scarcely bends,
a pristine blue-and-white blend above,
with chance piercing sunshine casting straight shadows on grey. 

 

Urban life began to swallow the farms once more as Noida emerged. My father joked that it was like South Korea with numerous sky rises. A surprisingly modern prelude to Delhi. For the curious, Noida is one of the wealthiest cities in India. Still glanced at a cow walking unabetted in a side street though!

 

Trees standing as wise sentinels to the roads...we had arrived in a densely packed city, with stalls and streetlights. At sun down, the trees shone in calming nightly glow. Sleepy yet dynamic. With this third city, our only guide was ourselves (as planned).

 

Past 7 pm, and I now stood inside a fancy hotel, capturing the dignified vibes of Delhi. Less dignified: my body being free from imodium side effects.

With my gut health normalizing, I was ready to enjoy the depths of food. Food arrived later than 8 pm, rather late....Time to dig into butter chicken, which hails from Delhi, and chicken tikka. A rather chicken heavy meal, but really tasty. A few days into a family trip mandated a re-energizing meal. Here goes my Delhi dive.

Delhi: The Elegant City
Hotel breakfast felt luxurious with smoked salmon and an assortment of good dishes, even above others experienced on this trip. After this re-up on energy stores, we headed out for a day of exploration.

First stop was Qutub Minar, with a tremendously long line. We decided to skip the line and drive around, which gave a very glancing view.

Lodhi Garden next is known for beautiful plants and impressive Mughal monuments. (We really like our Mughal aesthetic, huh?) Wandering around was a rare moment where the trip slowed down.

Just imagine facing scenery like this:

 

 

My mom pointed out a shortcut back to our entrance. We had to step down some blocky, big stairs but found our way back. Along the way out, there was a remarkable bird that felt closer to a painting. It nudged away from me but I managed to get a good picture before our time finished up there.
 

Onto Humayun's Tomb! That's right, more incredible Mughal styles. Admittedly, these styles feel familiar to describe. Think of these as a precursor to the Taj Mahal, including the "Tomb" part.  Instead, I ask you the reader to soak in these images.

Perhaps a little strange, but this blue-capped "mushroom" building was my favorite part of the area. Turns out, my sister and I had both thought of this place, but we used different terms. I'd worried we would miss it on the way out! Imagine my gratitude when we make it here to this remarkable building. In fact, this is Isa's tomb, capping off a very memorable visit.  

 

With the golden triangle feeling longer and longer, we took a break at the hotel for tea time and snacks. Then  my sisters and I met with my older sister's colleagues at a happening coffee shop in Khan Market,  giving rise to a fun discussion on life in India. Inevitably, it seems, the heavy traffic in Delhi was a major sticking point.

As the daylight dwindled, I felt a little uneasy. My list was incomplete and we had just this night and tomorrow morning and afternoon. Mom had a brilliant idea of a night visit to see major sites across town. A way to get acquainted even via drive-by.

India Gate, standing tall, is especially impressive at night compared to its ordinary daytime appearance.

 

Red Fort was described to me as just a "smaller Agra Fort", so we did not emphasize it. Our car went past Let me tell you though, the fort is still a beautiful sight, wall stretching as far as the eye can see. An excellent fit for the capital city. Unfortunately, the fort was closed for renovations, making this our best chance for views.

 

 

Lastly, our first visit to the historical bazaar Chandni Chowk. Nestled within is a beautiful mosque. Nighttime proved to be a little scary with streets packed with cars and sidewalks packed with people. Cops signaled with sirens for the traffic to move and it still took a while. Based on this, I silently resolved to come back one more time before the airport.

Once our mission completed, I cherished the idea of resting by moonlight. En route back, Delhi's leafy beauty was well illuminated by city lights. Definitely a city with some immaculate vibes.

Now on the full fifth (the final) day of our trip. Out in the garden, this time, I noticed mynas (the birds below) and crows. My meal comprised of pain au chocolat, aloo paratha, chai, orange juice, and carrot-beet juice. Truly a charming way to build on my time eating breakfast at hotels lately.

  

Meeting up downstairs, we had some confusion about where to go. Sisters traveled to Khan Market, an area where intellectuals and well-to-do types hang out, while my parents and I returned to the historical Chandni Chowk. Now may be an excellent time to point out: my grandfather apparently grew up near this intersection. Solid half an hour in traffic was required to come here.

My cultural enrichment was catalyzed by a short bike rickshaw ride we took seeking the Jama Masjid (mosque). Our driver would get off the bike to walk us through tight spaces. 20 rupees for saving my tired feet from negotiating the busy walks. Sights and sounds filled us through this space.

Cycle rickshaw towards the golden mosque,
past the lively red Hindu temple,
revealing fast food and sari stores alike,
alongside many walker-bys
in this world of many eons past,
with food served as in centuries past
for those wishing it.

 

 
We landed near the Masjid, making our way around to the entrance.

 

 

Up close, it is beautiful. However, the mosque requires 300 rupees for foreigners, which irritated us considerably. My mom convinced the security guard to allow us to take photos from outside, which took a second to sit with me. I realized this was our best chance to appreciate the mosque and head on our way soon. After all, we were running quite close on time for our hotel checkout.

  

Cars were tremendously inhibited by the walking-heavy, space-light area of Chandni Chowk. My parents tried to negotiate a spot to get picked up by rideshare. When the driver canceled, and the situation went to square one, it was time for another approach. That's right: going with the trusted rickshaw. They are often considered abrupt, chaotic. Instead, this one was smooth, maneuverable, agilely darting down the streets. I admired how skilled this driver was at slotting between cars, and taking shortcuts only possible for a rickshaw.

Final moments in the hotel started clicking down as checkout time rapidly closed in. One staff person walked in with reheated meal leftovers, prepared for me by my mom's request. This two day old butter chicken, with some remaining naan, was incredibly satisfying now that my appetite was back with me. Alas, it was time to finalize this resourceful meal and resume the journey back.

 

Without warning, time to head back to the airport was upon us. Snapping one photo of the hotel lobby made me a little sad that the trip was already winding down. It was certainly long, but easy to say "not long enough" at the end. Funnily enough, the drive was relatively unimpeded, giving us much time to digress and process during the wait for the plane. Soon enough, we were back in Mumbai, looking back on these wonderful events.

 

My Takeaways
Jodhpur and Udaipur showed me the joys and tribulations of planning a trip yourself. In the Golden Triangle, by contrast, we had two tour guides and then returned to a self-tour. Despite my fondness for cultural context, I tend to be someone walking past these details to get pictures. Both tour guides allowed me to slow down and appreciate how these masterworks arose. For example, guide 1 taught me about the cormorant platform, reading sundials, and making astrological predictions. Guide 2 shared his deep knowledge of the Mughal empire, coming from lived experience and scholarship, fusing the Golden Triangle into a more cohesive experience. (Think: Black Taj and the deeds of Akbar, Shah Jahan, and Aurangzeb.) Ourselves, rather guide 3, were able to chart an interesting route ourselves with the experience of tour guides.

I learned about myself that a self-guided tour works best. Largely because of pride, even as guides can offer so very much. Doing it yourself gives more flexibility, but it also leaves more uncertainty. Tour guides can resolve details for you like drivers, effective for very hectic places.  No one right answer here, sadly.

Five days across the Golden Triangle offered a remarkable chance to cover a wide swath of Northern India. Mughal history and beautiful architecture and delicious food connected the three cities of Jaipur, Agra, and Delhi. At the same time, going by car gave me the chance to see how terrain changes across hours. Flying back to Mumbai from our last stop (Delhi) left me feeling a little remorseful, but in a good way. A supremely memorable trip through red sandstone, rolling plains, farms, and India's cultural diversity.